Yes, new construction homes do require pest control. Fresh products, disrupted soil, and incomplete information create short-term opportunities for insects, and the surrounding landscape and climate can turn those early spaces into long-term issues if you do nothing. The critical distinction with new builds is timing. You can prevent most invasions by forming construction practices and early maintenance, instead of awaiting an exterminator after you see droppings or wings on a windowsill.
Why insects show up in brand-new houses
On a jobsite, everything that brings in bugs exists simultaneously. Lumber stacked on the ground. https://canvas.instructure.com/eportfolios/4115257/home/timing-your-treatments-spring-vs-fall-pest-control-methods-for-best-results Open wall cavities. Moist concrete that is still curing. Dumpsters with food wrappers from the crew. The soil around the foundation has been disturbed, which invites ants and termites to check out. Grading and drain are still in flux. Doors go in before thresholds get sealed. Electrical contractors and plumbing technicians punch holes for lines, then move to the next system. All of this produces a buffet of shelter, moisture, and access.
A new home is also surrounded by disrupted habitat. When trees boil down and the ground is scraped, rodents, spiders, and pests look for the closest steady shelter. That could be your garage, a gap under a sill plate, or the space behind a tub surround. Even upscale, securely constructed homes see a preliminary wave of activity during and simply after occupancy since bugs are simply following the course of least resistance.
I have strolled hundreds of punch lists where the outside looked pristine from five feet away, yet a half-inch space at the bottom of a garage side door or a missing out on escutcheon around a pipeline sufficed to welcome mice within a week. With brand-new building, these are not defects even an anticipated finishing sequence that requires deliberate pest-minded follow-through.
The most common bugs in brand-new builds
The cast of characters depends on region and structure type, however specific patterns hold.
Termites, specifically below ground termites in the Southeast, Mid-Atlantic, and Gulf states, use soil contact to reach structural wood. If the builder stops working to deal with the soil under the slab, leaves kind boards in contact with grade, or stacks mulch too deeply against siding, termites can discover the structure rapidly. In parts of the Southwest, drywood termites ride in on infested trim or pallets.
Ants hunt non-stop. Pavement ants and Argentine ants will nest under piece edges or behind exterior foam. Carpenter ants, common across northern forests and Pacific Northwest, target damp wood around window dollars and improperly flashed decks.
Rodents need a hole the width of your thumb. Construction phases leave foundation vents propped open, garage doors unsealed at the corners, and utility penetrations oversized. A mouse will follow the boundary till it feels a draft and squeeze in.
Cockroaches, notably German cockroaches, normally get here in boxes and devices rather than from the soil. Home builders rarely present them. Move-in day does. Restaurant takeout in the garage while you unload assists them establish.
Spiders and occasional intruders like house centipedes, earwigs, and millipedes relocate since brand-new homes hold wetness, especially in basements and crawlspaces while concrete remedies. You also see cluster flies and stink bugs in fall if soffits and attic vents lack proper screening.
Carpenter bees and wood-boring beetles target exposed or unattended softwoods on patios, fascia, and pergolas. If exterior trim is primed however not totally painted for a few weeks, you can get early season dull scars.
Mosquitoes thrive anywhere grading traps water. Newly cut lots typically hold shallow anxieties, clogged up swales, or ruts from heavy equipment. A week of warm weather and those puddles hatch.
The lesson is not to fear pests, however to understand their predictable routes and cut them off early.
Construction-phase steps that make a difference
Good pest control for brand-new homes begins before the drywall goes up. Some of these actions fall to the contractor, some to the homeowner who is paying attention and asking the ideal concerns. The very best outcomes happen when both celebrations deal with pest avoidance as part of build quality, not an afterthought.
Pre-treats at the soil and framing user interface are the backbone in termite areas. There are 2 main techniques: a soil-applied termiticide before slab pour, or physical barriers such as stainless-steel mesh at penetrations and termite guards on piers. In some markets, builders set up bait systems after final grading. Each has trade-offs. Soil treatments work well however can be jeopardized by later energies or landscaping; bait systems need tracking but utilize less chemical. Ask for paperwork of the pre-treat and keep it with your closing documents, because your warranty and future refinance appraisals may ask for it.
Capillary breaks and moisture control reduce risk far beyond termites. Correct gravel base and vapor barrier under slabs, sealed sump lids, and well-placed dehumidifiers in the first summer keep wood from remaining wet. Wet wood draws in carpenter ants and fungi, and once ants tunnel into foam or framing, repair work expenses increase sharply.
Sealing the structure envelope is not almost energy efficiency. Every penetration requires a purpose-made escutcheon or boot and a high-quality sealant compatible with the products. Electric meter bases, hose bibs, air conditioning linesets, gas risers, drain cleanouts, and low-voltage channels are normal powerlessness. Extra-large holes get filled with backer rod before sealing, not caulk stuffed into empty air. Insects feel airflow. If you can feel it with your hand on a windy day, they can discover it.
Sill plates and garage interfaces deserve special attention. The bottom corners of garage doors are cutouts for the track. If the concrete is not completely level, daytime programs through. Install diagonal limit seals or adjustable aluminum thresholds. At house-to-garage doors, utilize door sweeps that in fact touch the flooring, and weatherstrip on all sides. The gap under a laundry-room door to the garage is among the fastest rodent paths inside.
Roof and attic information matter. Gable vents and soffits should be evaluated with hardware fabric sized to keep out wasps and rodents, not simply bugs. Ridge vents require end caps sealed versus bats. Foam often gets sprayed generously, then cut, leaving little spaces that hornets love to exploit. If your house is in a wooded area, insist on a complete mesh wrap at any attic vent larger than a register cover.
The dumpster and lunch rule is simple: tidy sites have less bugs. Ask your superintendent to keep the dumpster cover closed and to schedule more regular hauls if it overruns. Food waste in a roll-off attracts rodents and flies, which then explore your framing and garage.
What changes after move-in
Once you get keys, the rhythm shifts from building control to house owner routines. Those very first 4 to 6 months are key. Your home off-gasses, concrete remedies, landscaping settles, and trades return to repair punch products. On the other hand, bugs are still assessing.
Moisture stays opponent number one. Run bath fans enough time to clear mirrors. If your basement smells earthy or your hygrometer reads above 55 percent in summertime, run a dehumidifier. Check for condensation on ducts and around linesets that go through rim joists. Drips at P-traps and tiny pinholes near crimps on icemaker lines can go undetected for weeks, and the first sign may be carpenter ants pulling frass from a toe-kick.
Trash and recycling storage typically get ignored. Cardboard is a German cockroach express. Break boxes down quickly, store bins with tight covers, and keep them off the garage floor if you see rodent droppings. Garage door seals compress and take a set; adjust them throughout the very first season so the corners remain tight.
Landscaping options either help you or make your pest-control budget climb. Mulch depth needs to stay around two inches, not 4 or 6. Keep mulch pulled back 3 to 6 inches from siding. Prevent stacking topsoil versus wood trim. If you are planting shrubs, leave a minimum of 18 inches of air gap between foliage and your home. Irrigation heads ought to not hit the siding. That day-to-day wetting brings in ants and rot fungi.
Lighting modifications insect habits. Warm-spectrum LED bulbs attract fewer flying bugs than cool-white. Mount fixtures far from doors when possible. I replaced three can lights at a customer's entry with protected sconces aimed downward and cut the nighttime moth cloud to a third.
Plan your storage. Attics and crawlspaces are tempting for off-season clothes and vacation design, yet cardboard boxes entice silverfish and mice. Usage sealed plastic bins, and if you see droppings, set breeze traps before you have a nest. Baits have their location, however you do not want to develop dead-mouse smell in inaccessible cavities.
When to bring in a professional
You can deal with many elements of avoidance yourself, however two moments justify calling a certified pest control business. First, throughout construction or just after closing if you are in a termite area. Validating the pre-treat and picking a monitoring strategy is not a do-it-yourself exercise. Second, at the very first sign of an active infestation: live roaches in daytime, regular ant routes within, chomp marks on baseboards, or recurring wasp nests in the exact same soffit cavity. A credible exterminator will detect the entry points and the conditions that support the pest, not just spray and go.
In my experience, the best supplier imitates an additional set of eyes on your building shell. For example, I when had a client with ants appearing seasonally in a second-floor bath. The professional observed an inadequately sealed vent stack flashing that let water wick into the sheathing. Fixing the flashing resolved the ant issue. No recurring treatment needed. A great technician talks about wetness, gaps, and grades as much as about chemicals.
If you choose a service plan, search for one that stresses assessment and exclusion, not just calendar sprays. Quarterly gos to that consist of structure checks, attic evaluations, and exterior caulking touch-ups deserve more than a month-to-month border squirt. In termite zones, yearly evaluation with a bait or soil-treatment warranty is standard. Keep records. If you sell the home, a transferable termite bond can relieve purchasers' minds.
Building science details that suppress pests
A home that handles water, air, and heat well also resists pests. The overlaps are practical.
Air sealing reduces drafts that bring smells and wetness, which both draw in insects. Concentrate on rim joists, leading plates, and around can lights in attics. If you have spray foam, verify that batts or foam totally cover the rim. I consistently discover uninsulated, unsealed rim bays behind finished walls that work as highways for mice.
Drainage aircrafts and flashing details stop concealed wet spots that draw ants and beetles. Kickout flashing at roof-to-wall shifts keeps water from running behind siding. Window head flashing that laps correctly over the weather-resistive barrier avoids the little rot pockets carpenter ants love. These information are not unique; they are line items that sometimes get rushed.
Ventilation balances humidity. A tight home needs balanced consumption and exhaust, not simply a big range hood that depressurizes and sucks pests in through gaps. Think about a devoted makeup air set for big exhaust fans. In humid environments, set bathroom fan timers for 20 to 30 minutes after showers.
Material choices matter. Pressure-treated bottom plates on pieces and borate-treated sill plates in damp zones purchase you margin. Cementitious siding withstands carpenter bees much better than soft pine. Strong PVC or fiber cement for exterior trim where it touches masonry keeps ants from burrowing into punky wood. If you set up foam outside insulation, secure it with a long lasting cladding at grade so rodents do not carve it.
The function of geography and season
Regional context shapes method. In Florida and seaside Georgia, subterranean termites are ruthless, and palmetto bugs (American cockroaches) will find garage spaces in a week. Soil pre-treat, piece edge defense, and garage door limits are non-negotiable. In the Upper Midwest, field mice and cluster flies control fall issues. Attic vent screening and meticulous door weatherstripping settle. In the Pacific Northwest, Carpenter ants and moisture are the duo to view. Roof and window flashing, plus year-round dehumidification in basements, make the difference.
Season likewise determines techniques. Spring is swarmer season for termites and ants, when you might see wings near doors or windows. That is an indication to call for examination, even if you cured pre-construction. Summertime brings wasps and mosquitoes as crews finish punch deal with doors propped open, so coordinate schedules and keep entry doors closed when possible. Fall focuses on sealing for rodents and periodic invaders before the first frost. Winter season is quieter, a good time to address attic gaps and insulation voids without fighting insects.
A pragmatic maintenance rhythm for year one
Think of the first year as commissioning your house. You are not just living in it, you are finishing the construct by identifying small problems before they compound.
Walk the exterior monthly for the very first season. Look for mulch approaching, soil settling to expose or bury foundation edges, gaps where utilities get in, and damaged screens. Carry a tube of premium sealant and fix what you can on the area. Keep notes on anything that requires a trade to address, like a misfit door sweep or a flashing question.
Check the mechanical penetrations each quarter. The AC lineset, the condensate discharge, the heating system consumption and exhaust, and the clothes dryer vent ought to be tight and insulated where proper. That clothes dryer vent hood flap should close fully. I have actually seen starlings and mice both press into a low-cost vent.
Test and adjust weatherstripping. Insert a dollar expense at the bottom of exterior doors and close them. If the costs moves freely, you have a gap. Change the strike plate or replace the sweep. Do not forget the door from the garage to your home. Numerous builds pass code with that door fire-rated, but the seal is frequently an afterthought.
Monitor humidity. Place an inexpensive hygrometer in the lowest level and one on the primary floor. Go for 35 to half in heating season, 45 to 55 percent in cooling season. If you are outside these ranges, bugs are not your only problem, however they will be part of it.
Make a Sanity Rack in the garage. Keep grain items, family pet food, and birdseed in sealed containers. Store yard seed and fertilizer off the flooring. If you see droppings, do not assume they are old. Sweep them up, then examine back in a day or two. Fresh pellets suggest existing activity and justify trapping and a closer search for entry points.
Chemicals, bait, and barriers: what to use and when
Chemistry has a place, but it is not a very first relocation, especially inside a new home. Concentrate on three tiers.
Physical barriers come first. Screens, door sweeps, copper mesh packed into bigger spaces before sealing, and hardware cloth over crawlspace vents are durable and do not off-gas. For gaps around pipes, I like a two-part technique: backer rod or copper mesh, then a top quality elastomeric sealant or mortar patch.
Targeted baits make good sense for ants and rodents when you have actually validated tracks or activity. Place ant baits along edges where you see movement, not in the middle of a room. If baits go untouched for days, you either misidentified the ant types or the food choice, or you removed the trail however not the nest, so reassess. For mice, snap traps remain the most humane and diagnostic. They inform you where the issue is. If you select rodenticide outdoors, utilize locked, tamper-resistant stations and understand the danger to non-target wildlife.
Residual sprays are the last hope in a new develop. If you work with a pest control business for a boundary treatment, ask what they utilize, where they apply it, and why. Barrier sprays can be effective against ants and occasional invaders, but they must accompany exemption and moisture correction, not replace them. Inside your home, avoid broadcast insecticides. Gel baits and crack-and-crevice applications, used moderately, fix cockroach introductions better than a fogger.
What house owners frequently overlook
Even diligent owners miss a few foreseeable items.
The attic access is frequently uninsulated and unsealed. An easy gasketed, insulated cover minimizes warm, wet air flow into the attic that attracts overwintering pests. A wasp nest near the hatch is not a random option, it is warm and protected.
Deck journal flashing is sometimes incomplete. Water seeps, the wood softens, and within a season or 2, carpenter ants relocate. If you see rust streaks or staining under the journal, have it opened and corrected.
Stone veneer against grade looks premium however can conceal a path for termites and ants if there is no clear gap at the base and no weep details. Keep mulch away from veneer and have a pro examine if you remain in a termite area.
The garage-to-attic chase is a highway. Numerous attached garages have an open chase where energies increase. If that is not fireblocked and sealed, mice ride it. Ask your builder if firestopping at leading plates was confirmed after trades cut holes.
Landscape timbers and fire wood next to your house are an invitation. Keep firewood stacked 20 feet away if possible and off the ground. Landscape ties treated with creosote appear hard, but they harbor ants and termites under the surface.
A short, practical starter plan
- Before closing: confirm termite pre-treat or bait plan in writing, ask the contractor to seal noticeable energy penetrations, and guarantee door sweeps and garage limits are tight. Weeks 1 to 8: handle humidity with fans and dehumidifiers, break down boxes rapidly, adjust weatherstripping, and appropriate grading that holds water. Month 3: check attic and crawl or basement for spaces, droppings, nests, and wetness; screen vents if needed. Month 6: prune plantings far from siding, pull mulch back from the foundation, and switch outside bulbs to warm-spectrum LEDs. Ongoing: quarterly outside strolls with sealant in hand, set traps in the beginning indication of rodents, and call a pest control professional when you see repeat activity.
Budgeting and expectations
Preventive bug work is economical compared to remediation. Expect to spend a few hundred dollars in year one on sealants, thresholds, door sweeps, screening, and perhaps a dehumidifier. An expert evaluation with a border treatment, if proper, may run 200 to 500 dollars depending upon area and house size. Termite bonds with yearly examinations generally vary from 200 to 400 dollars per year for a single-family home, with retreatment consisted of if needed.
Be realistic about thresholds. No bugs is not a thing in the majority of environments. The goal is no colonies inside and no structural threat. A handful of ants after a rain, a random spider, or a wasp starting a paper nest under a deck is normal. What is not typical is seeing active tracks within, droppings that reappear after cleaning, or duplicated wing stacks in the exact same window corner.
Working well with your home builder and trades
Communication makes everything much easier. Bring up pest prevention during pre-construction conferences and again during mechanical rough-in. Ask for a quick walkthrough with the superintendent after siding and outside trim depend on take a look at penetrations and limits. When punch lists stretch into warm months, remind teams to keep doors closed and jobsite trash contained.
If you see a gap or moisture issue, document it with pictures, note the area, and share it respectfully. You are not nitpicking, you are securing their work. Most supers value a property owner who notifications details that conserve guarantee calls later.
When hiring an exterminator, share your develop details: piece or crawl, exterior insulation, siding type, pre-treat paperwork, and any moisture peculiarities you have actually observed. The more context they have, the much better the plan they can design.
The bottom line
New homes are not unsusceptible to insects. They are temporarily more susceptible because building interferes with soil and habitat, and ending up frequently leaves small gaps that wise insects and rodents will find. Fortunately is that prevention is unusually reliable at this phase. Thoughtful sealing, wetness control, careful landscaping, and a modest collaboration with a pest control expert will keep most concerns at bay. Deal with pest prevention as part of commissioning your brand-new house, and you will spend more time delighting in that new paint smell and less time discovering what carpenter ant frass appears like in a windowsill.
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Popular Questions About Valley Integrated Pest Control
What services does Valley Integrated Pest Control offer in Fresno, CA?
Valley Integrated Pest Control provides pest control service for residential and commercial properties in Fresno, CA, including common needs like ants, cockroaches, spiders, rodents, wasps, mosquitoes, and flea and tick treatments. Service recommendations can vary based on the pest and property conditions.
Do you provide residential and commercial pest control?
Yes. Valley Integrated Pest Control offers both residential and commercial pest control service in the Fresno area, which may include preventative plans and targeted treatments depending on the issue.
Do you offer recurring pest control plans?
Many Fresno pest control companies offer recurring service for prevention, and Valley Integrated Pest Control promotes pest management options that can help reduce recurring pest activity. Contact the team to match a plan to your property and pest pressure.
Which pests are most common in Fresno and the Central Valley?
In Fresno, property owners commonly deal with ants, spiders, cockroaches, rodents, and seasonal pests like mosquitoes and wasps. Valley Integrated Pest Control focuses on solutions for these common local pest problems.
What are your business hours?
Valley Integrated Pest Control lists hours as Monday through Friday 7:00 AM–5:00 PM, Saturday 7:00 AM–12:00 PM, and closed on Sunday. If you need a specific appointment window, it’s best to call to confirm availability.
Do you handle rodent control and prevention steps?
Valley Integrated Pest Control provides rodent control services and may also recommend practical prevention steps such as sealing entry points and reducing attractants to help support long-term results.
How does pricing typically work for pest control in Fresno?
Pest control pricing in Fresno typically depends on the pest type, property size, severity, and whether you choose one-time service or recurring prevention. Valley Integrated Pest Control can usually provide an estimate after learning more about the problem.
How do I contact Valley Integrated Pest Control to schedule service?
Call (559) 307-0612 to schedule or request an estimate. For Spanish assistance, you can also call (559) 681-1505. You can follow Valley Integrated Pest Control on Facebook, Instagram, and YouTube
Valley Integrated Pest Control is proud to serve the Fresno, CA community and provides reliable pest control solutions for busy commercial spaces and surrounding neighborhoods.
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